Colombia Birding Part 2: The Fincas
Nestled in Colombia’s Western Andes, fincas are more than rural estates—they’re sanctuaries for birds and a celebration of the region’s agricultural traditions. These private properties seamlessly blend conservation, hospitality, and farming, creating spaces where nature and culture coexist. Araucana Lodge, our base for exploration, is no exception.
Aracauna Lodge
In the 1950s, Julio and Alicia, the grandparents of the current owners, purchased 30 acres and named it La Araucana in honor of Alicia’s Chilean heritage. Originally a flower farm, the property now boasts organic fruits, vegetables, and free-range chickens, providing much of the flavorful, nutritious food served to guests. Meals are further enriched by supporting local growers, incorporating ingredients like fresh farmer’s cheese into the menu.
Dining at Araucana Lodge is a feast of local flavors and farm-to-table freshness. Breakfast might include banana pancakes, guava jelly, fresh fruits like mango and guava, and scrambled eggs cooked with tomatoes and onions. A highlight was the zapallo or ahuyama squash popovers, made from squash that owner Christopher says "grows like weeds on the property". Lunches and dinners included fresh plantains, vibrant salads from the garden, and local specialties. One of the most refreshing drinks was lulo juice, made from a green fruit in the tomato family that grows on-site. A standout meal was ajiaco, a comforting soup of chicken broth, rice, shredded chicken, capers, and sour cream—simple yet deeply satisfying. Also outstanding are the wood-fired pizzas made fresh on-site. Classics like chicken and mushroom were delicious, but the standouts were the creative plantain and guava pizzas. The sweet, caramelized plantains and the tangy-sweet guava added a unique twist, making these pizzas a highlight of the lodge’s dining experience.
Drinks were equally memorable, with options like freshly pressed grape juice and agua de panela, a sugarcane drink. The sugarcane, molded into discs, dissolves in water to create a beverage similar to sweetened iced tea.
With this nourishment, we set off each day to explore the finca’s grounds and nearby estates, where the buzz of hummingbirds (colibríes) and the songs of endemic birds enriched every moment. Birding the fincas of the Valle del Cauca is an experience of natural and sensory abundance, where every stop offers a new flavor, a new vista, and a deeper connection to Colombia’s biodiversity.
On our first day at Araucana Lodge, we explored the gardens and trails, taking in the fruit trees, flowering plants, and native vegetation that attract so many birds. The morning started with a pair of Saffron Finches feeding on the ground, their bright yellow feathers standing out against the lush greenery. A tall, uniquely shaped conifer caught my eye, and I asked about its story. The Araucaria tree, the namesake of Araucana Lodge, is a striking evergreen native to South America, particularly Chile and Argentina. Its unique, symmetrical shape makes it unmistakable: a tall, conical form with a straight trunk and whorled, spiky branches that fan out horizontally. The sharp, triangular leaves spiral around the branches, giving the tree a prehistoric appearance. In its native regions, the Araucaria hold deep cultural significance. The name Araucaria comes from the Arauco region of Chile, where the trees were first discovered. The name is derived from the Spanish exonym "Araucano", which means "from Arauco". The Araucano exonym was used to describe the Mapuche people of south-central Chile and southwest Argentina, whose territory includes natural stands of the Araucaria genus.
The heart of birding at Araucana Lodge is the feeding station at the forest's edge. Fresh bananas attract a vibrant array of species, offering incredible close-up views. Colorful euphonias and tanagers, including scarlet and flame-rumped, palm, blue-gray, and golden varieties, and Green Honeycreepers flit in to feed. They are joined by striking male and female Red-headed Barbets and the Crimson-rumped Toucanet. A family of Chachalaca birds scurries about, while the calls of Acorn and Lineated woodpeckers echo through the trees. The highlight? A pair of stunning Green Jays, a much-anticipated sighting! As we wander through the 30-acre property, we spot a variety of incredible species, including Blackburnian Warblers, the Tropical Parula, and the Bar-crested Antshrike—an emblem of the lodge itself.
The hummingbird feeding area at Araucana Lodge offers fantastic lighting for capturing these creatures in flight. As they hover at the feeders, they then dart up to perch on the palm fronds, providing perfect opportunities for photos. There’s a stunning variety of species, each with unique colors and sizes. Among the many we spot are the White-necked Jacobin, Brown Violetear, Purple-throated Woodstar and Green-breasted Mango.
To learn more about Araucana Lodge, please click here to visit their website.
La Florida El Bosque de los Aves
The next day, we visited La Florida: El Bosque de los Aves, just a few miles down the road. The turnoff at KM18 led us onto a narrow, sometimes dirt road, and finally up a steep driveway. Situated at a higher elevation than Araucana, La Florida—meaning "place of the flowers"—felt like a world apart. Drizzly and gray, the mist floated through the valleys below, lifting and resettling, creating an enchanting atmosphere for birding and photography. At La Florida, birders are drawn to two standout species: the dazzling Multicolored Tanager and the endemic Chestnut Wood Quail, a ground-dweller found only in this region
La Florida is a cozy and welcoming retreat, designed for quiet moments of reflection amidst the beauty of the forest. Scattered throughout the property are benches, chairs, and even a porch swing, perfect spots to soak in the view, listen to the birds, and feel the cool mountain air. The sounds of the forest blend with the hum of daily life, like the women preparing coffee and lunch in the kitchen.
Lunch was simple yet comforting—starting with a warm chicken bone broth served with boiled potato slices, just right for the damp, cool day, followed by a hearty chicken and rice dish.
Adding to the charm of La Florida is Pancha, a domesticated green parrot. Pancha’s personality fills the space with laughter (literally), dancing, and the occasional tantrum when craving attention from her owner. Remarkably, Pancha doesn’t mind sharing her food and perch with the occasional Motmot, making her a unique part of this birding haven.
The feeding area at La Florida buzzed with birding activity. Highlights included the Multicolored Tanager and the striking Motmot. Among the regular visitors were a pair of Red-headed Barbets, a family of Scarlet-rumped Toucanets, and the ever-active Acorn Woodpeckers. Other notable sightings included the Rufous-collared Sparrow, Chestnut-capped Brush Finch, Golden-crowned Flycatcher, Saffron Finches, and the Golden Tanager..
A dirt path led us deeper into the woods, away from the main compound, to a blind where we had the privilege of viewing two endemic species—the shy Tinamou and the Chestnut Wood Quail. Afterward, we lingered at the hummingbird area, a clearing surrounded by lush vegetation that provided perfect perches for the birds to rest between visits to the feeders. It was a photographer's paradise, offering fantastic opportunities to capture the variety of hummingbirds in action.
Among the notable hummingbird species were the striking Long-tailed Sylph with its elegant tail feathers and the charming "Boots," our nickname for the White-booted Racket-tail, with its fluffy white leg puffs. We also spotted the shimmering Andean Emerald, the bold White-necked Jacobin, the diminutive Green Thorntail, the subtle Brown Violetear, and the vibrant Fork-tailed Woodnymph. Each bird brought its unique flash of color and personality to the scene, making the hummingbird area a highlight of our visit.
To learn more about La Florida Birding, click here.
San Felipe Nature Reserve
The third finca we visited was San Felipe Nature Reserve. San Felipe shares the same turnoff as La Florida at KM 18, but it's a longer journey down the road. As you arrive, you're greeted by the sight of a beautiful country estate—a yellow house surrounded by manicured gardens and lush lawns, all nestled in an idyllic setting.
Our first activity was a walk downhill toward the "tinamou" blind located deep in the forest. The trail, aptly named Sendero del Alma (Path of the Soul), invites visitors to embrace its serene atmosphere. A small sign along the way reads: "Disfrutemos los aves y la naturaleza en silencio"—"Let's enjoy the birds and nature in silence." This sentiment set the tone for a peaceful and immersive birding experience.
In the hide deep in the forest, we were rewarded with sightings of a pair of Chestnut Wood Quail and a pair of Tinamous quietly feeding. The scene came alive with the arrival of a Motmot, hunting in a small clearing. We watched as it foraged, likely for caterpillars, and even entertained us by swinging on a vine.
The highlight of our time, however, was not visual but auditory—the soulful, resonant song of the Chestnut-breasted Wren. Its pure, beautiful notes filled the forest, a perfect reminder of the sign’s gentle request: "Disfrutemos los aves y la naturaleza en silencio"—"Let’s enjoy the birds and nature in silence."
Back at the main house, we were treated to a truly beautiful lunch in an equally stunning setting. The outdoor dining area was adorned with cascading orchids, creating a serene and vibrant atmosphere. The tableware and place settings perfectly complemented the natural beauty around us. We enjoyed a delicious and savory squash soup, followed by a hearty chicken, rice, and beans dish.
At the feeding area, we had the pleasure of sighting an Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush and a pair of Southern Emerald Toucanets. These vibrant birds added to the incredible diversity of species we encountered throughout the day.
To learn more about San Felipe Birding, click here.
Back at Araucana Lodge, the morning greets me with a magical moment. A pair of Green Jays flit to a tree by the corner windows just before sunrise, their vibrant colors a striking contrast against the misty morning light. There’s something truly mystical about birding in those early hours, as the world begins to stir. The distant outline of the Andes, shrouded in mist, provides the perfect backdrop to the songs of the Buff-rumped Warbler and the Chestnut-capped Bush Finch. It’s a quiet, peaceful time—an intimate connection with nature that I’ll never forget.