Colombia Birding Part 3: Dona Dora
Nestled along a winding road in Colombia’s Western Andes lies a birding destination unlike any other: Doña Dora’s. What began as a modest roadside stand is now a must-visit destination for birders from around the world with over 420 bird species recorded on its grounds. Located at approximately 1,800 meters (5,900 feet) on the Western Andes’ Pacific slope, her sanctuary is a beacon of conservation nestled within the Chocó Biogeographic region. This unique location, with its cool, misty conditions and dense native vegetation, creates the perfect habitat for some of Colombia’s most coveted bird species.
Doña Dora herself is the heart of this haven—a conservation icon whose deep connection to the land has shaped her life’s work. Raised in these mountains, she grew up observing the rhythms of nature, fostering a respect for the region’s rich biodiversity. Years ago, recognizing the pressures of habitat loss, she took it upon herself to create a safe haven for birds, offering food, shelter, and a place for them to thrive.
Her efforts didn’t go unnoticed. Word spread among birders, and soon her property became a hub for viewing Colombia’s most sought-after species, including tanagers, toucanets, and hummingbirds. Today, her site is not only a birding hotspot but also a testament to the power of grassroots conservation. Doña Dora’s warmth and passion inspire everyone who visits, making her sanctuary about more than just birdwatching—it’s a celebration of coexistence with nature.
Beyond her incredible contributions to bird conservation, Doña Dora herself is a beloved figure. With a warm and inviting smile, she greets birders from around the globe who come not only for the birds but for the sense of community and passion she fosters. Her son’s colorful murals, adorning both the interior and exterior walls of the sanctuary, add a personal, artistic touch that reflects the family’s deep connection to this special place.
One of the sanctuary’s most sacred spots is just outside the entrance to the trail leading down to the forest hide, where visitors might spot the elusive Andean Cock-of-the-rock. Here, a small altar dedicated to Virgen de los Remedios depicts two Indigenous peoples paying homage to the Virgin Mary. Virgen de los Remedios translates to "Virgin of Remedies" in English. This title refers to a specific devotion to the Virgin Mary, often associated with seeking her intercession for healing, protection, or aid in difficult circumstances. In some regions, this devotion also has historical ties to the blending of Indigenous and Catholic spiritual traditions. This peaceful shrine, set amidst the verdant forest, underscores the spiritual connection between people, nature, and conservation at Doña Dora’s.
Our day began early, departing the lodge at 4:30 a.m. to reach Doña Dora's before 6:00 a.m., just as the sun was rising. The goal? A trek down to the river to witness one of Colombia's most iconic birds—the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock - known for their striking red plumage and bold, guttural calls.
Upon arrival, a light drizzle mingled with the fog and mist, setting an ethereal tone for the hike ahead. At the gate marking the entrance to the trail, we selected rustic walking sticks, essential for navigating the steep, wet, and winding path. I couldn't help but worry about the climb back up; the pitch was daunting, and at moments, my knees felt weak from the sheer steepness. But determination won out and powered onward.
The descent was marked by the constant roar of rushing water, punctuated by what sounded like a nearby waterfall. This was the Anchicayá River, its powerful flow winding through the valley below the sanctuary. We heard the distinctive calls of the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock males shortly before we reached the small earthen hide tucked into the hillside. The hike down took about half an hour. We witnessed four males performing their ritual displays, flapping their crimson red feathers while their calls echoed through the valley. We had only a small window of time to observe them before they dispersed, vanishing upward into the mountains. It was an unforgettable moment, worth every challenging step.
The Andean Cock-of-the-Rock is nothing short of striking, its crimson-red head, neck, and shoulders draping like a mantle over its body. A subtle contrast is provided by gray feathers on its back and black tail feathers, while its bright yellow-orange feet add another splash of color. The bird’s eyes are barely discernible amid the intense red, with a sharp black pupil encircled by a yellow ring. The Andean Cock-of-the-Rock’s head is distinctively rounded and slightly oversized, almost like a half-dome or helmet, giving it a unique silhouette. This exaggerated shape is emphasized by the bird’s prominent crest, which arches smoothly over the top of its head and partially obscures its short, sturdy beak. The beak itself is pale orange-yellow, relatively small compared to the rest of its head, and subtly hooked, ideal for grasping fruit in its forest habitat.
Photographing these birds in the misty, gray light of the forest was a challenge. Using my 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, I relied on manual focus to capture them in the low visibility, which tested both patience and precision. Yet, their vibrant colors stood out even in the subdued lighting, making the effort entirely worthwhile.
Midway up the steep trail back from the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock hide, we reached a second birding hide—an ideal spot to rest and take in the forest's wonders. This shelter turned out to be a birding treasure in its own right. The highlight was a stunning Squirrel Cuckoo, its chestnut-brown plumage stood out among the foliage, complemented by a long, strikingly patterned black-and-white tail and a bright yellow bill.
While we caught our breath, a Buff-rumped Warbler and a Canadian Warbler flitted through the underbrush, darting after insects and offering fantastic photo opportunities. Adding a magical touch, a giant iridescent turquoise moth fluttered through the forest, an ephemeral burst of color against the lush greenery. It was a moment of awe and wonder, making the hike feel even more rewarding.
Back at Doña Dora’s, we were greeted with the warm hospitality she is renowned for. She prepared a hearty breakfast for us, which we enjoyed on the back porch overlooking the feeding station. The meal consisted of scrambled eggs, cheese empanadas, fresh tropical fruit, and a cup of the most delicious hot chocolate I’ve ever tasted—perfect for chasing away the morning dampness.
Nature's surprises continued, as we spotted another giant moth perched on a tree nearby, an Owl Moth. Its wing pattern bore an uncanny resemblance to an owl’s eye—a natural defense mechanism that left us marveling at nature’s ingenuity.
The feeding station did not disappoint, with a star appearance by the male and female Toucan Barbet. These striking birds, with their vibrant mix of red, green, yellow, and black plumage, are the signature species of Doña Dora’s sanctuary. For many birders, this is the place to see this iconic bird in its natural habitat. Other visitors to the feeders included a large Brown Tree Creeper, a group of lively Acorn Woodpeckers, and a kaleidoscope of colorful tanagers.
After breakfast, we moved upstairs to the hummingbird terrace, where we were elevated into the tree canopy. Birds from the feeders below flitted up to perch among the flowering vines and trees, including many Bananaquits, who seemed to "hang out" with the hummingbirds. Among the dazzling hummingbird species, the Andean Emerald and the Velvet-purple Coronet stood out as personal favorites. Watching these tiny jewels zip through the air was the perfect way to close our visit to this extraordinary sanctuary. The learn more visit https://www.donadorabirding.com/en